Milling: Difference between revisions

Revision as of 18:52, 14 May 2020

(In progress)

Grain (also called grist) consists mainly of starch granules inside a husk. Before the mash, it must be mechanically crushed using a grain mill in order to break open the husk and expose the starch and enzymes inside. The starch granules are also crushed in the process, increasing their surface area. In general, the crush quality affects the mashing process and saccharification time, lautering, the brewhouse yield, fermentation, the filterability of the beer (beta-glucan content), and the color, taste, and overall character of the beer.^[1]

Basic Milling Process:

Set the desired mill gap.
Weigh out the grain on a scale per the recipe specifications.
Optional/recommended: Condition the grain. (See below)
Add the grain to the hopper.
Spin the drive roller to run the grain through the mill (into a container or directly into the mash tun).

Grain Mills

Corona Mill

Save your money and get a real mill.

2-roller

Malt Muncher 2 Roller Grain Mill (MoreBeer)
The Barley Crusher Grain and Malt Mill (MoreBeer)
The Evill Twin Grain and Malt Mill (MoreBeer)
Monster Mill MM2 Grain Mill (MoreBeer)
https://www.crankandstein.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=9

3-roller

Malt Muncher 3 Roller Grain Mill (MoreBeer)
Monster Mill MM3 Grain Mill (MoreBeer)

High-end

Motorized MaltMuncher Pro (MoreBeer)
Ss Brewtech Grain Mill (MoreBeer) User review
MoreBeer!® UltiMill - The Ultimate Grain Mill (MoreBeer)

Reasons to buy a mill

I like, big, husks, and I cannot lie!

Bearings vs bushings? Bushings wear out over time. However, if you keep the bushings lubricated with just a drop of mineral oil every now and then it works MUCH nicer.^[2]

I also gave up conditioning after going 3roll and get a really awesome grind. However IMO you have to be turning fairly slowly (100 or less) for ripping not to happen.^[2]

Knurled vs fluted?

Stainless steel vs cold rolled?

3-roller vs 2 roller

The 3-roller mill has several advantages:^[3]

It provides less husk damage, which aids in lautering.
It more fully separates the starch from the husk, while providing superior grain feed, even with wheat.

There are also a few disadvantages to a 3-roller mill:

Additional power is required to drive it.
Brewhouse efficiency may be higher than initially expected.
They are generally more expensive.

The 3-roller works by pre-crushing the grain in the preliminary gap between the top two rollers, then opening the husk to expose the crushed kernel in the secondary gap with the third roller. The top gap is fixed at approximately .060" which easily pulls in both wheat and barley, softening the starch without tearing up the husk.^[3]

Gap Setting

The optimal mill gap setting is dependent on your mill, your brewing system, and other factors. Therefore there is not a one-size-fits-all gap setting. For some brewing systems, the husks must be disintegrated as little as possible during milling because they are required for lautering. For other brewing systems such as "Brew In A Bag" (BIAB), the grain can be very finely milled if desired. Less well modified malt requires finer milling.^[1]

A feeler gauge should be used to adjust the gap setting.

Driving the Mill

Motor vs drill vs hand crank vs mule?

100RPM amazon gear motor ?

The best speed to run home brew mills is around 150-250 RPM. Running it faster will create more flour, so slower is generally better, whatever works without your drill or motor stalling. It usually takes a little more torque to get the mill going than to keep it going, so you will have to give it some more power to start the mill, and then slow it down once you are milling.^[3]

Other Considerations

Oxidation processes start immediately after milling and can have a negative impact on the subsequent beer quality. Therefore the time between milling and dough-in should be kept as short as possible. Microbiological problems may also become a concern if it is stored for too long after conditioning.^[1]

Commercial low oxygen breweries fill all areas containing milled grain with inert gas (CO₂ or N₂). Low oxygen home brewers may also attempt this by flowing inert gas into the bottom of the mash tun and milling directly into it.^[1]

"Flaked" or "rolled" adjuncts do not need to be milled, although they can be run through the mill with the rest of the grain if it is convenient.^[4]

Conditioning the Grain

Aside from cellulose, the husks also contain polyphenols and other compounds that create an unpleasant bitter taste and have a negative effect on the colloidal stability of the beer. Dry husks fragment easily and lautering becomes more difficult if the husks disintegrate too much. However husks become more elastic when they are moist, making them easier to protect and subsequently making lautering more rapid.^[1] Wetting the grain is called "conditioning". The goal is to increase the most content of the husk by approximately 2%.

http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/uncategorized/grain-conditioning/

Process:

Add water to a small spray bottle. Generally the amount of water should be about 1-2% of the weight of grain.
Spray the grain evenly while stirring (e.g. with your hand) until the grain becomes pliable.
The grain may be milled a few minutes after wetting.

Advantages:

The grain can be ground more thoroughly (tighter gap).
Husk volume increases (looser grain bed).
Yield and attenuation are increased.
Conversion is faster.
Reduces dust.

Disadvantage:

Requires labor.

I regularly use 24+ pounds of malt, weigh it out in buckets, then pour a thin layer into a large plastic tub, spray it down, pour another layer, spray it, and repeat until done. Easy peasy, works great.^[2]

I do 100L batches with malt bills anywhere from 20-30+kg and still condition my grain. I just have a large tote and a flexible misting nozzle for my sink hose. I turn the mister on and stir with my mash paddle since it no longer stirs the mash. Works like a charm and is actually easier and more enjoyable than spraying 7kg with a spray bottle, this method doesn't involve any hand cramps.^[2]

I have the mm3 pro powered by a low speed drill. I don’t condition any more because I find it’s not necessary. But the conditioned crush was absolutely beautiful. Endless piles of barely torn husk. The mash wasn’t noticeable better though. So I eliminated that 10 minute effort from my brew day and focus elsewhere.^[2]

Adding a Motor

Coming soon?

References

↑ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e Kunze, Wolfgang. "3.1 Milling the Malt." Technology Brewing & Malting. Edited by Olaf Hendel, 6th English Edition ed., VBL Berlin, 2019. pp. 203-218.
↑ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e "Choosing a malt mill."
↑ ^a ^b ^c "FAQs" Monster Brewing Hardware. Accessed May 2020.
↑ "Brewers Barley Flakes." Product Information Sheet, Briess, 2019.

[Kunze-1] Kunze, Wolfgang. "3.1 Milling the Malt." Technology Brewing & Malting. Edited by Olaf Hendel, 6th English Edition ed., VBL Berlin, 2019. pp. 203-218.

[LOB-1069-2] "Choosing a malt mill."

[monster-3] "FAQs" Monster Brewing Hardware. Accessed May 2020.

[4] "Brewers Barley Flakes." Product Information Sheet, Briess, 2019.

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@@ Line 94: / Line 94: @@
 I do 100L batches with malt bills anywhere from 20-30+kg and still condition my grain. I just have a large tote and a flexible misting nozzle for my sink hose. I turn the mister on and stir with my mash paddle since it no longer stirs the mash. Works like a charm and is actually easier and more enjoyable than spraying 7kg with a spray bottle, this method doesn't involve any hand cramps.<ref name="LOB-1069"/>
+I have the mm3 pro powered by a low speed drill. I don’t condition any more because I find it’s not necessary. But the conditioned crush was absolutely beautiful. Endless piles of barely torn husk. The mash wasn’t noticeable better though. So I eliminated that 10 minute effort from my brew day and focus elsewhere.<ref name="LOB-1069"/>
 ==Adding a Motor==